I feel like this should go without saying, but THIS IS A REALLY WEIRD TIME.
Don't get me wrong! I am so grateful we made it to Amsterdam. Our rotation was touch-and-go for so many months -- that we're here, settled, and crushing our daily routines is nothing short of a miracle. I feel a renewed rush of gratitude every morning I throw open my windows, down my flat white, and smell my fresh-picked flowers from the cute corner grocer. After all, I've wanted to live in Europe for as long as I can remember. Considering we almost cancelled this trip altogether, it's not lost on me that we're here and making this work is very, very special. At the same time.... the more we acclimate and the more comfortable we feel, the harder it is to acknowledge all that we aren't doing. I'm completely charmed by Amsterdam as I know it now, but it feels impossible not to pine for the restaurants I may never go in, the canal boat rides I might never take, and the social outings I can't enjoy. And that's not to mention all the MANY travel destinations that are off-limits. As I look at my crumpled Oktoberfest outfit, regelated to the bottom of my suitcase, I can't help but let out a small, self-pitying tear. I never have been a "glass half empty" person. But with every passing week we experience, the thought runs through my mind: how much better would this have been not in the middle of a pandemic?! Especially I look ahead to our anniversary this weekend and the Italy trip that can no longer materialize (as well as the Plan B and C options that have also since been cancelled), I feel an overwhelming sense of melancholy. However, if I've learned one thing in my 27 years, it's this: experiences are what you make of them. And this experience truly has been an exercise in gratitude and perspective-taking. I won't lie and say I didn't Google "when will the pandemic end?!" last night in bed. There are things we are missing out on. But to reframe that -- as us therapists are inclined to do -- if even a half-hearted Amsterdam can incite in me this kind of adoration, what a WONDERFUL adventure must await us when things improve! As my mom always says: comparison is the thief of joy. So, I am hereby vowing not to let my imaginings of what "could have been" steal my joy from what "is." And what "is" is pretty darn amazing. When I'm on a bike ride and the canals take my breath away. When I duck out after a long workday for a takeaway bottle of delicious, dirt-cheap French wine. When I gorge myself on the authentic Italian pizzeria across the street. When I'm awestruck by the picturesque European architecture. When I eat dinner al-fresco on our cute little patio. When I visit yet another world-ranked museum as part of an everyday Saturday. When I have a successful conversation in Dutch at the grocery store (nee, geen bon). And so on. These are the moments worth focusing on. Although this is a really weird time -- this will not last forever. We will weather this storm. And in the meantime, I will try my hardest to enjoy every minute I can dance in the (plentiful) Amsterdam rain. (Even if nobody in this country will let me purchase health insurance, but that's a topic for another time). xo - Lou
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As soon as our 10-day quarantine ended, Jack and I were off to the races! Today's post recaps some of the biggest "To-Do's" we accomplished in the past two weeks. Step 1: Opened a Bank AccountBright and early the first morning after our quarantine lifted, our relocation consultant picked us up and took us to open a Dutch bank account. We had been really looking forward to this, as a local bank card is required to sign up for a phone plan, obtain health insurance, and shop in many stores. We also thought an account was needed for us to purchase our bike subscription (though we've since discovered we were wrong on this one). Regardless, this felt like a big step towards affording us more access to our new city, and we were pumped to get at least one task knocked off our list. We were quickly disappointed to discover that making the account was only the first step, and it actually would not be useable til our cards arrived via mail later that week. Whoops! Thankfully we had little time to mourn this realization, as we were swiftly shuttled off to begin a full day of apartment hunting. Step 2: Found an Apartment In the days prior to our home search, Jack and I scoured online apartment postings and compiled a list for our tour. We had been warned that apartments move quickly here in Amsterdam, and that definitely is true. By the morning of our search, many of the places we had planned to see were already off-market. The realty group had selected some replacement properties for us, so thankfully we still had a full schedule. In total we toured 9 places. As the day progressed, I started feeling increasingly worried that I didn't like a single apartment we had looked at. Some were in undesirable locations, others were on really noisy streets, some smelled funky, and others were covered in cat hair (a no-no for my dander allergy, especially considering the apartments we were looking at all came furnished). As is on-brand for our dynamic, Jack was much less picky, but agreed he didn't see anything that blew him away. By the time we arrived at the doorstep of the last place on our list, we were both hungry, thirsty, cranky, and ready to re-start our search from square one. They say good things come to those who wait, and Apartment #9 proved no exception. We were relieved to discover the final apartment we saw was tidy, well-decorated, had great natural light, a balcony, two bedrooms, an actual oven, and best of all: A DISHWASHER. It also was in a prime location, at the SW corner of Vondelpark. It wasn't huge, especially compared to our Chicago apartment we'd been spoiled by. It also was missing some key furniture we'd have to purchase - a TV, a TV stand, a desk, etc. But it was the best we'd seen by far, right on budget, and we felt we could make a home there. We put in an offer on the spot, and soon learned we were accepted! We set a date to move-in the following Monday. Step 3: Got RegisteredOn Wednesday of that same week, we crossed two more big steps off our list: getting our Dutch residence cards and our citizen service number ("burgerservicenummer"). Since we didn't yet have our bank cards, we didn't yet have bikes, and consequently this day entailed a LOT of walking. It ended up being a great way to see the city, and we enjoyed killing gaps of time by taking the scenic route through two prominent parks, Rembrandpark and Beatrixpark. As we're continuing to see for ourselves, Amsterdam is PACKED with gorgeous parks, and each one truly has its own character and identity. Step 4: Connected with our Fellow ExpatsWe are very thankful to already have a few connections here. We met one couple during our 2019 rotation orientation weekend, and Jack met another coworker through his time in Chicago. I also know a friend of a friend who is an Amsterdam resident, and can't wait to get her insider's scoop on the city! Since there's such a large population of expats who have rotated here from the States, Jack's company also facilitates meetings, discussions, and events for rotating employees to meet and connect with one another. Leaning on our existing relationships, while also taking advantage of these avenues to form new ones, has been a great way to get some socialization. We've enjoyed three meetings in Vondelpark so far with various groupings of coworkers - some who have been here awhile, and others who arrived the same time we did. We are definitely looking forward to more of these encounters, as it's a great way to share knowledge about our experiences and meet some new friends in the process. Step 5: Moved InJust this past Monday, we officially moved into our new apartment. It wasn't without kinks - our internet didn't work for the first day and a half, which is less than ideal when we both work from home. We also discovered our freezer was malfunctioning, and a baseboard literally just fell off the wall (as baseboards apparently are wont to do). We also had the fun task of maneuvering our 10 suitcases and all our Ikea orders up our shockingly steep Dutch staircase. But as it goes, the issues all got resolved, our furniture was built with little-to-no-swearing, and the treks up and down our staircase are granting us some pretty svelte calf muscles. Sitting here on day 6 in our new home, I'm proud of how cozy we've made this place in such a short amount of time. Our TV might still be missing in DHL delivery limbo, but I'm excited for the memories we'll make here and that we'll always remember this as the third apartment we've shared together. Step 6: Bought BikesWhen we finally were able to get our bikes, it could not have been an easier process. Although originally our plan was to buy a used bike from a local bike shop, Jack's coworker recommended we check out Swapfiets, a subscription bike service. For a set fee every month, they give you your own bike to use for as long as you want, and they'll handle repairs and replacements should it break or be stolen. We made a pick-up appointment online, and were in and out of the shop in less than 10 minutes. The act of actually riding the bikes has been less seamless, but still much easier than I anticipated. Jack definitely has taken more naturally to biking as a form of primary transportation than I have. Even so, although I'm not the most graceful biker around, I'm getting more confident with each passing day. Biking is also becoming much easier physically, as my legs get stronger and my balance improves. In terms of my road skills, I'm currently averaging about two "dings" at me per day. Oops! We both have some growth edges to work on in terms of our understanding of traffic rules and road signs, but we're learning a ton from watching our fellow cyclists (and some good ol' fashioned trial and error). Step 7: Got Drinks at a WindmillArmed with our bikes, we capped off our move-in week with a ride out to Brouwerij t' IJ, a taproom attached to a massive Dutch windmill. We made a quick stop just next door at another local brewery called Amsterdam Brewboys, and ended our trip at De Biertuin, a beer-focused spot with a great outdoor terrace. Despite being caught in an impromptu rain shower (which we're learning is basically a guarantee on any given day), our first Saturday ride on the bikes was a success. In all, the tasks we knocked out these past two weeks have played a HUGE role in helping us feel more adjusted here. Here's to hoping our next two weeks are filled with just as many memories, and significantly less deliveries to carry up those damn stairs.
Vaarwel, - Lou Typically, employees from Jack's company who rotate to Amsterdam have a very busy first week. They are helped to open a Dutch bank account (a requirement to shop at many stores here), buy their bikes (the #1 mode of transportation by far), and get formally registered as Dutch residents. In their first week or two, they also begin their permanent apartment hunt. Though his company puts everyone up in a temporary house for (up to) ~1 month upon arrival, you eventually transition into an apartment of your choosing. It's encouraged to spend your first few weeks exploring the city as much as possible to identify what neighborhood(s) you'd like to hunt in for your permanent digs. Since Jack and I arrived from the US, a high-risk country for COVID, we've been adhering to a recommended 10-day quarantine following our touchdown in Amsterdam. Aside from a brief, masked-up dash into a Jumbo for groceries our first evening (after discovering our online order wouldn't arrive for several days), any time we've spent outside of our apartment has been in the form of a quick daily walk. All of our registration appointments and apartment tours will kick off once quarantine ends, the week of Sept. 14th. Though we can't yet buy our bikes, get our Dutch phone numbers, or enjoy our local cafes and watering holes, we are doing our best to scout out the different neighborhoods on foot! Anyone who knows me can only imagine how much it's paining me not to pop into one of the hundreds of adorable restaurants, shops, or wine bars we've passed, but rest assured I'm keeping a thorough list. Of the many sights we've absorbed in our hour-a-day adventures, the canals, architecture, and sheer amount of bicycles certainly are the most noteworthy. I knew to expect all of these elements in my new home, but to see them in person is nothing short of breathtaking. I had pictured Amsterdam as this grey, dreary, moody place - and while I know that's coming in the fall and winter, I had no idea how absolutely GORGEOUS it would be this time of year. Trust me when I say that the photos do not do it justice! I also cannot properly express how many bikes there are here. Again - I obviously knew this was a bike-heavy city. I fully anticipated having to buy a bike, use it as my daily form of transportation, and hop on it no matter what the weather is doing that day. Heck, I even lugged a helmet from the US in my carry-on, not that anyone here uses them. (And you wonder why we checked 10 suitcases....) But WOW, there are a LOT of bikes here! It's actually pretty challenging to be a pedestrian in Amsterdam, as you have to stop and check every sidewalk several times before you cross, lest you get wiped out by a careening cycler. I am not the most coordinated person out there, so I definitely am eager to buy my bike and have a few test rides before taking it onto the crowded pathways. In addition to gawking at our gorgeous city, we've also enjoyed spending time in our temporary apartment. We have a canal-facing unit with both a front and back balcony, which is just as dreamy as it sounds. As we're not able to leave too much yet, I am so appreciative that our place is clean, bright, and comfortable. I easily can spend a whole day indoors and not feel stir-crazy. We also both successfully completed our first days at work last week -- Jack at the Netherlands branch of his company, and me in the same remote therapy role I held back in Chicago. It's a bit strange being in a drastically different time-zone than my West Coast colleagues and clients, but with some adapting I know it'll work just fine. Although I'll be working a little later into the evenings, I'm loving that I'll have my mornings off to do yoga, run errands, and enjoy een lekker kojpe koffie. I also know my flexible schedule will work great for traveling -- whenever that's a possibility! above, our temporary apartment // below, our balconiesWhile I'm truly loving my new city, there of course are some things that are taking some getting used to. First up is the eggs. This is something shared by most of Europe, but I was shocked to discover that Dutch eggs aren't refrigerated. You'll find them on the grocery shelves just like any other packaged item. After researching, I discovered the main difference between eggs here and in the US is that in the States, eggs are washed and chemically treated before being sold. Eggs have a natural protective membrane that helps preserve them; when washed, that membrane goes away and they need to be refrigerated. Here, the eggs aren't washed at all, making them safe to keep at room temperature. The "downside" of this is that you need to wash the eggs yourself before you eat them, and I've already encountered some feathers and bits of poo that are less than appetizing! Unfortunately I am very committed to my breakfast routine, so forgoing eggs is not an option. Six days down and I'm still kicking, so I guess I'll keep it up. The second challenge I've encountered is that 99% of food labels are in Dutch. Although I took several months of Dutch lessons, I still can't understand every single ingredient on the packaging. Though this usually would be no big deal, I have a serious peanut allergy, so it's important I'm able to read everything on the label. The one time we went in a grocery store it was EXTREMELY crowded and there wasn't much opportunity to pick up and scan every item for "pinda's" (peanuts) or "noten" (nuts). Until I learn what brands and items are safe for me to eat, I may stick for a bit to online grocery ordering, as all the ingredients are listed on the website and much easier to pop into my browser's Google Translate. Because of my allergy, I've also been hesitant to order restaurant delivery. Normally when we eat out, I am able to speak to a waiter or the chef to ensure my meal is peanut safe. It's harder to assure safety when ordering from an Uber Eats (or Deliveroo, a NL alternative). I'm getting a little tired of cooking every single meal, so I am counting down the days til our quarantine "release" next week! Jack already caved and had his first delivery from "Poké Perfect" yesterday, and reports it exceed expectations. That said, when you've had bland meat/grain/vegetable dinners for a week straight, the bar is pretty low. The last and biggest thing that we're adjusting to is how Amsterdam is handling COVID. In Chicago, we've grown accustomed to wearing masks everywhere, being constantly armed with sanitizer, and keeping 6 ft. distance at all times. Here, it feels like nobody has even heard of Coronavirus. Though you'll see signs posted that encourage 1.5 m distance, due to the density of the city that's impossible to uphold, and masks are not a thing (except for on public transportation). When Jack and I wore them on our grocery run, we were the only people in the store in masks, and definitely got some strange looks. In the coming weeks, we'll have to assess our comfort level as we work to balance enjoying our new city and seizing what is has to offer, but also doing what we feel is safe, especially in light of the rising case counts.
Next weekend, we're excited to (socially distanced) meet up with some of Jack's colleagues and a friend of a friend I know in the city. I'm also looking forward to enjoying a glass of wine not at my house, buying a European hairdryer, and finding Jack some waterproof shoes. It's the little things. Doei, - Lou Hello from the other side! Jack and I are happy to announce that we made it safely to our new home. As you might imagine, traveling in this climate was a bit of an endeavor. For that reason, my first post from abroad actually is not about Amsterdam at all -- but rather, about the ins and outs of our journey getting here. I found it endlessly helpful to read about other people's flight experiences in advance of our own, so hopefully this recap can be useful for anyone considering an upcoming voyage, whether domestic or international. -------- In the weeks leading up to our departure, I checked our plane's seat map every few days. At the time we booked, we were relieved to see that only 3 other seats were reserved on the entire flight, easing many of our safety-related concerns. After scouring the seating chart, Jack and I strategically booked the most socially-distanced spots we could find. Even up through the morning of our departure, my recurrent checking showed that only a few more seats had been claimed, resulting in a whopping 19 people on the flight, including ourselves. Even so, we departed for the airport sporting vinyl gloves and face masks, equipped with hand sanitizers and sprays galore, and of course - donning our trusty Amazon face shields. Which, just in case there was any confusion as to what we were wearing, thoughtfully proclaimed FACE SHIELD dead across our foreheads (pic below). Such a helpful -- and not at all embarrassing -- design choice. The goodbyes with our parents were emotional, and we crossed our fingers as the desk clerk weighed each of our bags. Thankfully, she let our questionable 24 kg duffel slide without comment -- as well as the 9 other bulging bags that followed. O'Hare itself was next to empty. Although we arrived approximately 3 hours before takeoff, we glided through check-in and encountered no line at all at security. I was so focused on preparing for the flight itself that I honestly forgot about the entire process of security. I don't know how else to describe it other than that I was at the conveyor belt to load my belongings and my brain finally went, "Oh yeah, this part." I definitely did not love the experience of loading my items into those germy little bins. As someone who has been sanitizing religiously these past few months, the whole encounter involved far more 'surface touching' than I'd done in some time. However, we made it through, and found ourselves at our sparcely-populated gate nearly 2.5 hours before we were due to board. I wanted a bottled water for the flight, so off we trekked to see what (if anything) was open. The airport was eerie - every lounge, shop, and kiosk we passed was barred up. I began to worry we wouldn't be able to buy anything for the flight, and had no idea if they'd be providing service on board. Thankfully, at the very end of the terminal, we discovered that one shop and one restaurant bar were open. We grabbed waters and cheesesticks, and enjoyed a final drink in America (served in a plastic cup, and gulped down hastily at a remote Burger King table across the way). Classy! Then, it was time to board. Alarmingly, the flight was far more crowded than expected. Although still much emptier than a "normal" flight, it was definitely not the 19-person voyage we anticipated. We quickly pieced together that the online seat map only reflects the passengers who take time to specifically choose a seat -- not everyone on the plane. Good to know for the future, for sure. After making our way back, we arrived to find a couple sitting in our carefully-selected seats. Without protest they moved (to two rows behind us), and I diligently sprayed down the entire area they had been sitting in. As I was already wearing a FACE SHIELD, I figured I couldn't look any more crazed, so I didn't hold back with my vigorous spritzes. In fact, many people on the plane actually were sitting in seats that weren't theirs, and the attendants had to keep repeating the message that we were allowed to relocate if desired, but not until after takeoff. Despite having to spend time issuing this reminder, we still took off without delay, and they informed us we were due to arrive 45 minutes earlier than planned. Praise be. As soon as we were airborne, many passengers elected to change seats. For some reason, the crew wouldn't let anyone utilize the fully empty second cabin of the plane, so we all had to maneuver around the same front section. I do wish this other cabin would have been available to us, as it seemed strange to me that they'd confine our seating when another unused, viable option was right there. They also did conduct an extremely brisk meal service about 20 minutes into our flight. They served a full entree including alcoholic beverages, and about 20 minutes after that, offered everyone bags of soda, water, and sandwiches. Jack and I lifted our face shields and removed our masks just enough to shovel in our meals. A lot of food was handed out in a short amount of time, and after one quick trash round, the crew did not come around again until landing. For our "in-flight entertainment," I read a book and Jack watched a movie, and honestly, the masks and shields were not as cumbersome as I thought. Once it fell dark, more people continued to move seats, seizing any empty row and sprawling out as if it was a full bed. While we didn't love having people park themselves directly behind and to the side of us, everyone did keep their masks on, and we felt thankful for our pesky face shields, after all. We fell asleep ourselves, and before I knew it we were descending.
We landed around 6:00 am Amsterdam time, and like O'Hare, Schiphol was a total ghost town. We were the first ones in line at Immigration, and got through with relatively little hassle thanks to our pile of paperwork supporting our journey. We surprisingly were also the first -- and among some of the only ones -- at the baggage claim. We eventually maneuvered our (many, heavy) bags onto luggage carts, and after some trial-and-error in figuring out how to drag them all behind us in one go, successfully made it to the pickup area, where a driver from Jack's company was waiting for us. He sped us to his van, loaded our belongings, gave us a hearty spritz of hand sanitizer, and promptly dropped us at our new apartment. More on our new digs, how we're handling our 10-day quarantine, and our developing adjustment to Dutch life in my next post. -------- Hope this recap was helpful in some way -- if for nothing else, to remind you of what it feels like to actually be on an airplane! For many of us (myself included), we haven't traveled in so long, that we've almost forgotten what the experience is like. Rest assured, KLM's meal service was just as average as you'd expect, and no matter how diligently you choose your seats, you're always guaranteed to end up next to a screaming toddler (or in our case, two). At least our screaming toddlers spoke French, which somehow made the situation moderately more charming. That's it for now! Stay tuned for cute apartment photos and my hot take on bikes. Tot ziens, - Lou Let me begin by saying the following: it is extremely uncharacteristic that we are doing this.
We are what I'd refer to as "cautious." Planners by nature, worriers by biology, and creatures of habit by choice, the fact that we actually committed to an 18-month rotation in Amsterdam is a very off-brand move, to put it mildly. It's even more out of character when you consider that we agreed to this Netherlandian relocation not just once, but twice. Twice!! I hear you - of all the years for a risk-adverse duo to uproot their lives and move to Europe, 2020 might not have been an ideal choice. Originally due to depart March 26th, we naturally were ready for our adventure long before then. By no later than the 10th, our Chicago walkup was packed into boxes, my job was freshly quit, and our suitcases were metaphorically (ok, physically!) lined by the door. But as they say, the best laid plans oft... are derailed by a global pandemic. As weeks of uncertainty soon became months, we slowly tried to return to "normal" life. I took a new job, we unpacked, repurchased the furniture we'd sold, and began to plan next steps for our lives in Chicago. Though not as exciting as a move to Europe, we'd agreed at the end of our lease to move to a new neighborhood, and I gradually removed the passport covers, waterproof raincoats, and travel bags from my Amazon cart and obsessively replaced them with barstools, couch pillows, and color-coordinated spatulas. You know - the usual things one does when moving from one apartment to the next. So, you can imagine our surprise when Jack's employer informed us that they were ready to resume our rotation. After working through our initial shock, and several email exchanges navigating the unusual logistics of relocating during lockdown, we contemplated the opportunity ahead of us. Did we still want to go? With the current travel bans and safety risks, our trip was looking very different from the one we originally had planned. After months of uncertainty, did we really want to take on a new challenge - or did we want some normalcy and predictability? I won't lie and say it was an easy decision. It wasn't. We paced around our neighborhood nightly for a week straight, talking through every pro and con imaginable. And there were many, on both sides. But ultimately, a decision was made. I ceremoniously added all of the ponchos back into my Amazon cart. Operation Stroopwafel was a GO. ... Which brings us to now! Barring any more changes or global developments, our tickets are officially booked for an August 31st departure. Although we already did our lengthy Chicago "farewell tour" back in March, we are grateful to have the next few weekends ahead for goodbyes with friends and family, to enjoy a few final good Chicago eats, and to check (and re-check) that our face shields, gloves, and sanitization supplies are all set for the flight. You heard that right: face shields. Seriously, what else did you expect from us? Til next time, - Lou |